MANILA, Philippines — Food is a language that carries the heritage of nations. Through taste, cultures tell their stories and preserve their narratives. For chef Dabo, a Filipino cook based in Dubai, his restaurant serves as a hub where these culinary narratives take center stage.

David Jezreel Lizardo Pamplona, or chef Dabo, is an award-winning chef and co-founder of the Naimas Café and Bistro in Dubai. Born in Batangas, he carries the food culture of his province into his role as the head chef for Naimas, learning how to integrate Filipino flavors with other Asian and Latin American palates. 

“Dubai is a global dining hub, and Filipino cuisine is so versatile that it fits any culture. My goal is to make our ingredients as globally recognized as sushi or curry — distinct, respected, and true to their roots,” he shared during a “Taste of the Philippines” event held at Guevarra’s by Chef Laudico in San Juan City.

Since he first moved to Dubai in 2012, he has continuously developed his palate and widened his range through learning different cooking traditions and infusing his own. 

The early embers

Chef Dabo’s story began with love. 

Graduating from Hotel and Restaurant Management at the Lyceum, his culinary journey wouldn’t begin until he moved to Dubai alongside his now wife.

Pamplona could not originally afford to take culinary classes, given that his job was just at a hotel. However, through the hotel company’s initiative in helping new hires, he was allowed to study culinary. 

His early years in Middle Eastern kitchens were filled with a whirlwind of flavors as the country is located near Europe, West Asia, and North Africa. His teachers and head chefs were also of different descents, allowing him to learn the plethora of taste portfolios various continents had to offer. 

“I worked for seven years in Latin American cuisine… [There is] Peruvian, Argentinian, Colombian..Venezuelan. Dahil ang mga kasama ko ay iba’t ibang lahi din…lahat sila may sarili ng tasting profile. So, nakonect ko siya sa Pilipinas, na tayo per city or province, iba yung tasting profile natin pagdating sa adobo. So, it’s okay pala na magkaibaiba talaga yung tasting profile,” he shared with Rappler.

(I worked for seven years in Latin American cuisine… [There are] Argentinian, Colombian…Venezuelan. Because I am with foreigners…they all have their own tasting profile. So, I connected it to the Philippines, that we have different tasting profiles when it comes to adobo per city or province. So, it’s okay that tasting profiles are different.)

As an epicenter for tourists and migrants of different ethnicities and nationalities, Dubai has developed a diverse culinary range when it comes to restaurants and cafes. Pamplona mentioned that their own menu from his first cooking job incorporated Thai and Japanese flavors into a mix of Latin American cuisine. 

“[Noong] 2014, doon na kami nag push ng menu, na i-flip namin ng i-flip yung fine dining scene sa Gitnang Silangan. Ang Dubai kasi, siya yung gitna, so lahat ng hub…nandoon lahat kasi they want to be the best of the best. Kaya, pagdating sa cuisine ina-adjust namin siya ng mabilis kasi fast-pacing kami doon,” he said.

(In 2014, that’s when we thought to flip the fine dining scene in the Middle East. Dubai is in the Middle East, so all of the hubs are there to be among the best of the best. Hence, when it comes to cuisine, we adjust quickly because we work fast-paced there).

Culinary breakthroughs

Chef Dabo sharpened his skills through the cooking habits he picked up from chefs, and attempts to recreate dishes at home. His bistro, Naimas, is an amalgamation of his time working under foreign chefs, learning the various taste palates found within and outside the Middle East, and developing his own skills.

Pamplona co-founded Naimas in 2022 alongside three other Filipino expatriates in Dubai with a vision of being the best Pan-Asian dining experience in the Middle East, merging Filipino cuisine with other Asian flavors. 

Its name is the Ilocano translation for “delicious,” Pamplona said. According to the website, “naimas” reflects the overall philosophy of the organization in delivering flavorful, authentic, and unforgettable dishes. Beyond that, it is also a space where cultures can meet.

During his event at Guevarra’s, Pamplona featured one of his favorite dishes — Empanada with Rum. It is a special dish, he said, as he first began developing the recipe even before he embarked on fine dining. Now, he shares his process of creating empanadas as a way to get back to his roots. 

He revisited his original recipe of empanadas from 13 years ago and added special twists in flavoring he pickd up from Latin American chefs Juan Manuel Ocampo and Paulo de Souza.

Such twist of technique speaks volumes of the character in his dishes — an important factor when it comes to cooking and developing your own cuisine.  

“Kailangan may sarili kang atake, sariling character. Kasi, hindi ka pwede maging katulad ng iba, kasi iba yung luto mo,” he shared with Rappler.

(You need to have your own approach, your own character. Because, you cannot be the same as others because how you cook is different).

Beyond Naimas, Pamplona is an award-winning chef, boasting four gold medals at the Salon Culinaire Dubai. He also garnered a finalist spot at PRO Chef 2019. 

In pursuit of the next great plate

During the event, Pamplona’s other dishes from Naimas’ menu, such as Bistek Saltado and Tiyula Itum Inasal Yakitori, were also served. 

Most evident in his food creations is the merging of technique and taste. His dishes showcase the best of Asian and South American flavors while also noting Dubai’s dietary restrictions. Hence, he has created a menu that is diverse in flavor and ingredients. 

“When it comes to composing new dishes, there’s a lot. As in, sky’s the limit. So, you can do everything because you are in the middle… you are very near Europe. If you look at the map, it is near everything. So, you can get all the ingredients,” he said in Filipino.

Now, he continues to add to the restaurant’s growing menu.

When the possibilities with food are limitless — given how different nations can easily share their food cultures nowadays — experimentation is essential. The kitchen becomes a playground for various chefs, including Pamplona. 

Yet, the kitchen is also a place to err. As Pamplona explained, with experimenting comes mistakes, and from these mistakes one can learn what not to do the next time around. 

“The more you experiment, the higher the chances of making mistakes. But each mistake shows you what not to do, and from there, you can start developing your own recipes. That’s why making mistakes is more than okay.”– Rappler.com

Mikay Tormon is a Rappler intern studying Bachelor of Arts in Communication with a Minor in Sociology at the Ateneo de Manila University.