Today on “Feast in the Kitchen,” we feature Beverly Lacsina, chef and owner of Walnut St. Kitchen and Walnut St. Bagels & Co. in Montclair.
With 15 years in the industry, Chef Beverly Lacsina has worked every part of a restaurant — from busser and host to manager and now business owner. As a first-generation Filipino-American, she draws inspiration from her heritage and weaves it into her cooking. Her cuisine reflects the foods she grew up eating, the flavors that have inspired her along the way and the bounty of what’s grown and produced locally.
One of her greatest passions is oenology. She began studying wine under mentors Mark Pascal and Francis Schott, owners of Stage Left Steak in New Brunswick. Since opening Walnut St. Kitchen, Chef Bev has wanted to reconnect with the beverage side of the business, and she’s excited to bring that passion to life with her newest venture, Bevs.
1. What’s your favorite local spot to eat?
Ray’s Luncheonette is where it’s at. I always tell everyone that it’s my favorite spot on Walnut Street, even over my own restaurant. I love everything they make and have never had a bad experience there. Their empanadas are my lifeline some days when I don’t want to cook for myself. Their chorizo plantain platter is what my dreams are made of.
2. What’s your favorite ingredient to cook with — and how does it shine in each season?
I love anything in the allium family, but specifically, I love using black garlic, scallions and ramps when they are in season. I don’t care what anyone says, if they say ramps are overrated, I disagree. They are a bounty from nature in only certain parts of the world (NJ being one of them), have a short growing period and provide so much flavor to ANY dish. They’re such a versatile ingredient, and you can use every single part of it. I pickle the roots, and then batter and fry them. It tastes like a pickled blooming onion. I use them as a garnish to elevate a dish.
3. What’s one ingredient you secretly (or not-so-secretly) can’t stand?
Burrata. I don’t know why or what happened exactly, but I’m just sick of seeing it on every. Single. Menu. Everywhere! What’s strange is that I love stracciatella cheese, which is what is inside burrata. So I use that in pasta dishes or with grilled veggies.
4. Tell us about a meal you’ll never forget.
Anything my parents have ever made me. But one of my absolute favorite dishes my dad has made is called Callos, a Filipino stew that typically features cow tendon, tripe, chick peas, red pepper, and tomato-based stew. It is just the best ever, and whenever he makes it, he always saves some for me.
5. When you’re off the clock — not in the kitchen — how do you like to spend your time?
Catching up on sleep! We are closed on Mondays, so I like to take the day to take care of errands or spend time with family and friends. But sometimes that can be a little exhausting. I look for ways to find a little peace and quiet in the midst of the chaos I’ve created in my life.
